Can’t Complain
I’m not sure if I am alright with eating palm oil. Jesus, I’m turning into such a goddamn hippie. But palm oil is very highly saturated, almost as bad for you as animal fats, and the production of it destroys rainforests as often as not. Basically you’re eating a hamburger from McDonald’s is what I’m saying.

Now: Nutella. Nutella cracks me up. I love that this chocolate-nut spread is marketed as a healthy snack for kids, it’s so European and sideways that I am inclined to grant them whatever lunacy they ask me to believe. Each time I see an ad for Nutella showing a mom “tricking” her kids to eat this “nutritious” snack of Nutella on toast I shriek with glee — do kids need convincing to eat toast? I mean, at least with the Hidden Valley Ranch commercials is shows kids chowing down on vegetables while eating profoundly unhealthy buckets of ranch dressing, you know what I’m saying? Of course all of this is moot, because Nutella is fucking delicious. You could be smearing it on gravel for all me or those kids care.

And then we’re back at the palm oil; America is the only country to have Nutella made with modified palm oil. Everyone else gets vegetable oil. And sugar! Oh man does American Nutella have a lot of sugar in it. If you’re lucky enough to find actual imported Italian Nutella then you should ignore this entire blog post, otherwise read on. I want to eat Nutella and about once a year I convince myself that it’s okay to buy a jar. However! The internet has once again come to my rescue, because Nutella? Is pretty stupid easy to make at home.

The most annoying part by far is roasting and peeling the hazelnuts themselves. I paid about $6 for a half a pound of raw hazelnuts, which means this homemade stuff isn’t going to be any cheaper than buying Nutella from the store, but it’s not much more expensive either.

And is it worth it? Ugh, yes. I’m sure my neighbors heard me yell “NUTELLA!” as I stuck spoonful after spoonful of it into my mouth. And better than Nutella, even! A good pinch of salt and things are starting to look bad for my “Eat Less Sugar If Possible” plan.

Gianduia Cream
if you can find cheap, peeled roasted hazelnuts, that’s great, but I’m betting you can’t. and if you don’t have a food processor, a blender will work but will take a little more patience; you’ll need to continually scrape down the sides and possibly need a few drips of flavorless vegetable oil to encourage the blending process. the cream will keep at room temperature for some time, but if the weather is warm you may want to compromise the fine, almost runny texture by refrigerating it rather than let your gianduia cream go rancid.
1/2 lb. raw hazelnuts
3 T. high quality baking cocoa (not Dutched)
3.5 oz. bar high quality milk chocolate, melted
scant 1/2 C. powdered sugar
1/4 tsp. salt or more to taste
- In a 400° oven, roast the hazelnuts on a baking sheet for about 10 minutes, or until they just barely start to smell roasty. Do not over-roast them!
- Meanwhile, melt the milk chocolate and set aside.
- When the nuts are barely toasted, carefully (hot!) and in small batches rub the skins clean of the nuts by vigorously agitating inside a clean kitchen towel. They will still require you to hand-rub almost each nut to get the skin off, but it’s a satisfying process. You won’t get them all clean – about 20% won’t give up their skins no matter what you do, but that’s okay.
- In a food processor or blender, grind the hazelnuts into a fine paste, until the nuts start to look wet from the oil they express. Then add everything else and blend for 2-4 minutes, or until quite smooth. It will never get totally smooth, but I like the fine graininess of it.
- Pour into 8oz ramekin or jar and try to keep from eating it entirely in the first 10 minutes.












