Anger Burger

A Tremendous Oversight

Posted by Sunday on Aug 29, 2010 at 11:44 pm

I genuinely can’t believe I haven’t shown you my secret family quiche yet.  I even talked about it in a podcast interview.  It’s just one of those things I make so regularly that I’m like, oh, this old thing?  My mom made this recipe for as long as I remember, and I’ve been making it since I was a teenager.  It’d be like telling you how to make cinnamon toast.

Of course it’s more complicated than that.  I have some serious opinions about quiche that go a little something like this: IT IS NOT AN OMELET IN A PIE SHELL.  I hate firm, eggy quiche, it makes me gag and yes I am being a drama queen.  Quiche should be a savory custard pie.  Not frittata.

Mike the Viking has been bothering me for years about showing him how to make the quiche, but I wouldn’t because when he can make it himself, he doesn’t need to keep me around any more.  I finally gave up and showed him, so I guess I should pack a satchel and steal away in the dead of night.  Wait, that’s ninjas.

For science, we used a Trader Joe’s frozen pie crust and guess what?  It was pretty okay!  I don’t think it’s an all-time replacement for homemade, but since this was an experiment in Mike’s autonomy, I wanted to see if he could just pick up a frozen crust for when he wants to woo my replacement with his quiche-making skills.  The problem was that the crust is too small, the morons.  It’ll fit maybe one of those little disposable aluminum pie tins, but not my standard glass Pyrex pan, hence the manual pushing around of the dough to get it to fit.

There is 100% no reason to use fresh spinach, because you’d just have to cook it down anyway.  I’d never eat frozen spinach in anything else (well, I would in spinach dip), but it needs to be squeezed dry before you can use it.  This is messy and leaves your sink looking like someone murdered the lawn in it.

This happened again.  I read somewhere that dogs need consistency in the home, so, you know.

Everything gets layered in.  I kept pointing out to him that the true craftsmanship of the quiche came from making sure the fillings went all the way out to the edges, but I’m not sure how much of that part he absorbed.

Oh for christ’s sake.

Well, he’s got one fan anyway.

The other issue the Viking is undoubtedly going to screw up when he’s alone is the patience aspect.  You can’t just dump the cream and eggs in, you have to coax it in.  Like with a lady.

Lumps get gently patted down.  Also like with a lady.

I live in terror of him using the oven when I’m gone.  I mean, “on” he gets.  “Off” is the sticky wicket.

When it’s done it turns golden and puffs up, but when you let it sit for 10 minutes it deflates to normal size and firms up a little more.  The interior is soft like pudding and might fight you just a little getting it out of the pan, but I don’t imagine I have to convince you this is a bad thing.  It’s a whipping cream and cheese pie.

Anger Burger Family Quiche
the primary piece of advice I have for quiche is to use either heavy cream or half-and-half (adding one extra egg to the latter).  don’t use whole milk.  do not.  the second piece of advice is to – with the exception of spinach, which should be from frozen – cook any filling before assembly.  say for example we make the other household favorite, the “breakfast quiche”: this consists of two or three small red potatoes, half an onion, half each of a red and green bell pepper (all diced small) and a quarter pound of breakfast sausage (or Gimme Lean), and everything gets fried up in a saute pan until brown and delicious as though you were going to eat it just like that.  THEN it gets put into a quiche with cheddar cheese.  or another example: broccoli and ricotta.  the broccoli is either steamed or sauteed until almost tender, allowed to cool just enough to squeeze some water out of it with your hands, and then added to a quiche with big globs of fresh ricotta and some part-skim mozzarella.  see a pattern here?  nothing goes in raw.  if you put in anything raw, it’ll weep water during cooking and make your quiche runny.  fair warning.

1 bottom pie crust, uncooked
2 eggs
1 pint whipping cream (heavy or regular, both are fine)
12 oz. of gruyere and/or standard swiss cheese, even the cheap stuff works great, grated
1 bag or two small boxes of frozen, chopped spinach, thawed and squozed
1/2 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. garlic powder
fresh pepper to taste

  • Prepare the crust first by forming it into the pan and putting the whole thing in the fridge to stand by.  Set oven to 350°.
  • Drain thawed chopped spinach by taking handfuls of it over the sink and squeezing it mostly dry.  Don’t get obsessive about it, just drain it the best you can.  There’s a lot of waste doing this, lots of small pieces will escape each time, but them’s the breaks.
  • In a measuring cup that holds 2 cups or more, beat the two eggs, then mix in the pint of whipping cream.  Mix thoroughly.
  • In the pie shell (uncooked still) layer as follows: half the cheese, then the spinach (crumbled up nicely to discourage big solid wads), salt, garlic powder, then the other half of the cheese.  SLOWLY pour the cream and eggs over the top, allowing it time to trickle down into the cheese and stuff.  If you pour too fast it’ll just flow right over the top and off the sides of the quiche.  Using a fork, lightly pat down the cheese and everything, taking care to remove pieces of cheese from the crust edge.  Top with lots of fresh pepper.
  • Bake for 45 minutes, or until puffed and golden and the quiche seems pretty solid if you give it a little shimmy.
  • Allow to sit 10 – 15 minutes before attempting to cut.  Or it’ll be a little runny, that’s all, if that doesn’t bother you than dive in.
  • Quiche leftovers are better than fresh.  Reheat slices in the oven at 300° for 20 minutes, uncovered.
August 29th, 2010 | Make It So

13 Responses to A Tremendous Oversight

  1. Tom says:

    What does squozing do to frozen spinach?

  2. Carrie Anne says:

    This I might like. Eggy, frittata-like quiche? I am not a fan.

  3. Ami says:

    Looks REALLY good. Just don’t let the Cooking Asshole know you used a frozen pie crust unless you can take his verbal tongue assault. He thinks himself the Quiche Master and anyone who uses anything less than homemade is a lazy sloth who is devoid of taste. And opposable thumbs.

  4. quagmire says:

    I bear witness to the awesomeness of the Anger Burger Family Quiche. I hated quiche (mostly because real men don’t eat it, right?)until I married Sunday’s mom and she convinced me to at least try hers (a large, sharp knife played a major role in the ‘convincing’ department). The moral of this story is; she is absolutely correct. Quiche should not be an omelet or frittata. The ‘crack’ version is creamy, rich, puddingy goodness. It’s a one entree meal, but when I am King of The Americas, I plan to make it a crime to eat this WITHOUT a generous serving of warm, sliced beets (your choice of styles, I like the vinegary tangyness of pickled beets myself). Oh, and a huge dollop of a quality brand sour cream for the coup de grâce.
    As an added note of provenance: when the Anger Burger Family Bakery in Olympia, WA functioned as a retail outlet, Sunday made these puppies (in variations on a theme) for our accounts and could never keep up with the orders.

  5. Anina says:

    I’m all over this tonight. I never realized cream was the secret…I always dump like 5 eggs in there and wish it turned out texturally like the picture you have here. Thanks for the tip.

  6. charlie says:

    I have been lurking all over your blog and I can’t get enough! There are so many things wrong with that sentence, I know. This quiche has brought me out of my lurky darkness, it looks that awesome!

  7. Sunday says:

    Everyone! You should all make this!

    Tom: Brother, you are not reading very closely! You squeeze the spinach to remove the water from it. We intend to replace that water with cream.

    Ami: Yeah, I know. But that’s why the Asshole is the Asshole and I’m the one little kids come up to while I’m shopping and tell me they like my Anger Burger t-shirt.

  8. Tom says:

    Neither are you, I was rather pedantically pointing out your cool “squoze” typo. Unless is an actual adjective of course, I would therefore stand corrected.

  9. Ami says:

    I am going to try and make it this weekend. I am curious to know how it will come out if use some mozzarella..will the cheese make it too watery? Some mozzarella cheeses are very weepy. And I don’t think Prozac will help. What are your thoughts?
    Your t-shirts rock.

  10. Sunday says:

    Mozzarella has worked in the past for me, but I’ve never used just straight mozzarella. The only advice I can give is to use what is always referred to as “part skim” or dry mozzarella.

    A only marginally related anecdote: a few of my friends have a New York style pizza place in Olympia, and one of them told me this story about how when they were first formulating their pizza, it kept coming out all wrong. Eventually they contacted a friend in New York and explained how they were making their pizza out of the best possible ingredients, and the guy says, “Well there’s your problem: your ingredients are too good. Cut the mozzarella down with the cheapest shit you can find and see if that’s better.” And it was.

    Thanks about the shirts – I really need to get them screen printed, I’ve ordered a few from Zazzle, which is totally overpriced to begin with, and then had one of them come back printed so badly that it basically came off in the washer. The company is really nice, but for as much as they are charging, I want them to be at least as good as screen printing.

  11. Ami says:

    Made this yesterday and it turned out gorgeous, puffy and golden brown. The draining of the spinach was not as daunting as I’d feared, but I doubt I will make this again unless I tweak it somehow, WAY too rich for me but with a pint of heavy cream in it that’s how it’s gonna taste! But I simply had to try it–your pictures were mouth-watering and I am a weak, weak woman.

  12. Sunday says:

    Oh believe you me, this is too rich for me to eat more than a modest slice, and with a large side-salad. The Viking, on the other hand, eats it in slabs, steadily, until it is gone. I don’t know how he does it.

    The best advice I have for lightening it is to replace the cream with half-and-half, and to add one extra egg to adjust for the thinner liquid, but also to add more filling, even if just to double the spinach.

    The other thing I didn’t mention was something I’ve done a few times for breakfast quiche, which is to use hash browned potatoes instead of a crust. It deserves a longer set of instructions, but basically you buy the best quality frozen hash browns you can find, cook them in the oven until mostly just warmed through but not too hot or crispy, remove them from the heat and allow to cool enough to handle, and then into a buttered pie pan, mash them into some semblance of a crust. Then add quiche fillings as usual, and bake as usual. It doesn’t make it lighter so much as more like a whole meal, which is nice too.

  13. Pingback: Anger Burger » Blog Archive » There is Not Enough Vodka in the World

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